Season Guide - Germany - Hilton Racing

Season Guide

Germany - Hockenheim

It’s not simply the excitement of a race at the legendary Hockenhiem circuit that makes the northern part of Baden-Wurrtemberg such a great place to visit.

There’s unrivalled scenery, historic towns, great food, vibrant nightlife and beer – and that’s just the starters.

The mighty Rhine with its rich political and mythological history flows to the West. Robber barons and prince Bishops have left a legacy of mediaeval castles, many of which are now conference centres or hotels. But the rocky banks remain lethal and the water dangerous. Loreley, the false water nymph, used her soft voice to lure sailors on to the cliffs. She must have sounded good – her statue’s most disappointing. But it’s Germany of the popular imagination and Speyer, eight and a half miles from Hockenheim, is right on the banks.

With the Mediterranean atmosphere, Speyer’s just one of the four unmissable places to visit near the track. Mannheim, 14 miles away is for serious shoppers and anyone looking to party through the night. Schwetzingen is the best garden of the Rhine, while Heidelberg is simply the most romantic city in Germany. When it comes to eating you’re spoilt for choice. Maultaschen (giant ravioli) trout with black forest ham, asparagus and warm potato salad are just a few specialties worth trying. Washed down with a mellow Rhine wine, naturally Mannheim, laid out like a cheese board, is an easy city to navigate, in Piaken, the main shopping street, stores look good outside and in. Try Engelhorn and Sturm for sports gear and expensive accessories. At Le Corange, their 5th and 6th floor restaurant, I had to stop off for coffee and irrestible cakes, delivered daily from Alsace. Mannheim was once a centre of performing arts. Through the court orchestra developed the symphony in the 18th century, today you’re more likely to hear a throbbing techno beat booming from the clubs. But if you’re after a bit of peace, the gardens at Schwetzingen Palace, west of Heidelberg, are extraordinary. An inventive rococo mix of formality untamed landscape and pure whimsy, they would have won gold at Chelsea had they entered.

Heidelberg, a university city of centuries standing, straddles both banks of the river Neckar. My photos looked like postcards. Hills, an old town, a prominent sandstone church and castle, ruined to a turn, reached by foot or funicular – no wonder Turner loved it. Perfect for the Grand tourist. But you could be forgiven if you were only here for the beer. Heidelberg with its famous student taverns is the kick off point for the best pub-crawl in Germany. Beer is really cheap – iconic beers, neither adulterated or wrecked. With over 5,000 beers on tap in Germany. Look out for local brews like weizen, pils and alt. There are a few rules. Don’t pick up your pint and start drinking before everyone’s ready. Say ‘Prost’ nicely and look your drinking partner in the eye. If you don’t you risk bad sex for 7 years.

When Carl Benz established his prestigious automobile factory in Mannheim in 1886 he had no idea what he was starting. Away from Grand Prix week at Hockenheim you’ll find turbo-charged drag racing, white-knuckle taxi rides and outdoor go-kart track next to the entrance to the driver’s paddock. The Schumacher brothers and Fernando Alonso got their motorsport careers into gear go-karting. But high-speed racing’s not for me. After a session on the racing simulator at Hockenheim’s Motorsport Museum, it was clear I should never attempt a hairpin bend like ‘Parabolika’ Reactions of a sloth and all that. Well noch ein pils then Prost.

On the track with Hilton

The Hilton Frankfurt is in easy reach of Hockenheim, about one hour away. The hotel is close to the stock Exchange and Alte Oper, built to rival the grand opera houses of Paris and Dresden. The Hockenheim circuit was built in 1932 for motorcycle racing, but expanded a few years later as a test track for Mercedes. Where once a long, fast section cut through a sweeping forest, the circuit has been shortened in favor of tight corners, while the atmosphere at the circuit is truly extraordinary, and Michael Schumacher is worshipped here naturally.

Eats and Treats

In Speyer, Domhof Hausbrauerei brews its own beer and serves local cuisine. Café Flo in Mannheim is a small art nouveau café, close to the water tower while Zum Sepp’l in Heidelberg is one of the city’s oldest and most famous taverns, around since 1634. Another popular student tavern is Zum Roten Ochsen nearby, its claim to fame is that John Wayne and Marilyn Monroe once drank here. Schnookloch is Heidelberg’s oldest surviving inn, dating back to 1407, and covered with graffiti, contributed by students down the centuries.